Hedda Lettuce - Dressing on the Side ★★★★★

Not since Dame Edna Everage has an entertainer so masterfully worked the audience for material. Hedda Lettuce, the self-described “reigning diva of New York City’s comic drag queens,” is relentlessly funny in her new show, Dressing on the Side, running this summer on New York’s historic Fire Island and for limited performances in Manhattan.

To label Lettuce a “drag comic” doesn’t do her justice. She is among the best comedians out there, period, whether in drag or not. With a lightning-fast wit and razor-sharp tongue, she extracts information from her audience before roasting them to a crisp. “What is your name, darling?” Lettuce asks her first victim. “Don’t worry. What is your name? I’m just making polite conversation.”

But audience members should worry because Lettuce is about to turn the most mundane details of their lives into interwoven punchlines that come back again and again in the show. There’s Paul, who grew up outside of Philadelphia. “Next time, don’t mention that,” Lettuce deadpans. “Just say, ‘I don’t remember where I’m from.’”

“What do you do?” Lettuce asks. Paul’s answer is a real buzzkill; he’s a project manager in an oncology practice. But Lettuce is up to the challenge, declaring that her show “just went to Stage 4” before improvising multiple cancer jokes that left the crowd gasping for breath.

Matthew, the insurance lawyer. Chris, a writer for People magazine. Oliver, a German hairstylist. All become delicious ingredients in Lettuce’s kitchen. And when she gets to Brian, a talent agent, Lettuce finds the perfect segue into her next song.

While audience participation is the highlight of the show, Dressing on the Side is cabaret in its classic form. No mere drag lipsyncher, Lettuce is a musical belter who delivers original satirical songs between her stand-up comedy. “The Queen of Green” was the perfect 9 o’clock number, on brand for a performer known for her neon green hair. There’s even a little hoofing on stage. As the show’s poster declares: “Live Vocals. Light Dancing.”

If you can’t catch the show in New York City this month, Lettuce will be performing weekly at the Ice Palace club on Fire Island through September. This small gay venue has hosted many legends through the years from Liza Minnelli to Patti Lupone. Located about three hours from Manhattan by public transit, Fire Island is one of America’s most iconic LGBTQ+ communities. It’s a perfect spot to get a healthy serving of Lettuce, herself a legend in the making.